Thermal imaging close up

A friend of mine linked me to an excellent video where Mike shows how to modify a thermal camera to have a closeup lens:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lie771fzBaw&feature=youtu.be&list=UUcs0ZkP_as4PpHDhFcmCHyA

Thermal cameras are beautiful things, but the wavelengths of light they work with are a tad unintuitive to us. Things we think of as transparent often turn out not to be, and ordinary camera lenses are totally opaque to thermal radiation.

Humans can only see from about 350nm to 800nm. Here’s graph code I had laying around for some other stuff, which shows how the human eye’s photoreceptors respond to various wavelengths:

Photopigment responses

Now, where does thermal imaging fit into that graph? Well, it doesn’t.  Let’s zoom out a little:

Electromagnetic spectrum

Hmm..  nothing yet. Let’s keep zooming out more:

Electromagnetic spectrum

Er.. a bit more then:

Electromagnetic spectrum

Ok, we can now see just how far from normal light these cameras work at. It also helps explain why our current lenses aren’t going to pass muster.

Thankfully lasercutter lenses, which are designed to work in the far infrared (about 10,000nm) are available cheaply and easily. eBay has a large supply, and I just ordered a pair for $60AUD.

In the meantime, I borrowed a spare lasercutter lens from a friend and designed a simple frame to hold it in operation without getting grimy or scratched:

Lens holder

You can hold it in front of the camera fairly easily. I’ll make a better mounting soon that’ll be hands free:

Camera with lens held in place

Camera with lens held in place

Here’s a thermal shot (with the unmodified camera) of an arduino board that had been running for a long time:

Wide shot

Wide shot

And here’s the sort of close up you can get with the external lens added:

Close up

Close up

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Lens testing made simple

There’s two widely used standards for small lenses, C mount and CS mount. They can both screw into the same socket, and it can be tricky to figure out which is which.

If you get it wrong you’ll end up with a picture that’ll never be in focus, no matter how you try and twist it.

I spent a few days recently making an optical system, and I got fed up with confusing my lenses together. My original way to figure out the focal distance was to squat down, eyes level with the table and then use a ruler to measure the height to the flange when the image was in focus. But this gets pretty tiresome after a while.

After a few mintunes scribbling and laser cutting I came up with this:

Simple lens tester

Simple lens tester

This box allows you to check your lenses in under 5 seconds. Just hold the lens up to a hole, and see if an image is formed on the plate. If not, flip the box upside-down and try again.

It’s rather cool how clear the image turns out, even on a rough surface like the bamboo:

Close up of the image

Close up

Files are up here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:495068

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Test

Uninformative test post.

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