Lasercut Yarn Bobbins

I’m working on a project that involves lots of different coloured cords, and I wanted a way to avoid tangles while transporting & working with them.

Bobbins.jpg

Files here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2360450

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Bayes’ Ruler – A Bayesian Slide Rule

I’m a big fan of Bayesian statistics, and also old analog computers. It occured to me one day that I hadn’t ever seen a slide rule for calculating Bayes’ theorem…

thumb_IMG_2809_1024.jpg

Behold a fine posterior

Here’s how to use it. Let’s say you’re a doctor, and treating a patient with a 80% chance of having gallstones. You order a new test done, and it comes back positive. What’s the probability they have gallstones?

After looking in the medical texts, you find the test is 5:1 more likely to be positive if the person has gallstones than if they don’t.

So, we align the arrow with our ‘prior’ on the left at 80% (4:1 odds), and look for the 5:1 diagnostic odds, which gives us a result of 20:1, or 95.2% probable the patient has gallstones.

thumb_IMG_2810_1024.jpg

There’s far better explanations out there than this, please check out Wikipedia for what’s almost certainly better worded than mine.

I didn’t have the heart to design something like this by hand in inkscape. Instead I used Python and the DXFwrite library  to generate the files, and then lasercut it from acrylic.

thumb_IMG_2808_1024.jpg

I also made a wooden version with a clear acrylic top, which should be less fragile in a bag:

thumb_IMG_2812_1024.jpg

 

Files are here for anyone that wants to make their own:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2347920

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Pachinko Crystal Modelling

I saw this video recently, and fell in love with the Atomix toy. Sadly it seems you can’t get them anymore. However, I remembered that in the garage  I had over a thousand Japanese pachinko balls left over from a previous project…

This was a quick one evening build, I just wanted to get it done before I got distracted. Some sawing and cutting later, and here’s what I have:

Overview.jpg

Can for scale, as with all my projects

I used thick 12mm thick plywood I had laying around the space, and a bandsaw-box like technique to cut out the inside of the frame. The front is lasercut 3mm acrylic, which I was originally worried might not be up to the job of keeping 3kg of agitated steel contained, but after shaking it a few times it seems to be sturdy enough.

You can hold the frame and shake it by hand, but I wanted something to be a bit more play-friendly. I had a lazy-susan bearing kicking around after I did various rebuilds of  a robot several years ago, and I decided that would allow some gentle motion.

Bearing.jpg

4×2 lovingly cut, and expertly screwed together in whatever fashion got it done before bedtime. 

With two wood pieces acting as a tilted base, the whole assembly sits tilted on the table and can be gently rotated with a light touch.

Tilted base.jpg

Finished piece

It’s certainly very  satisfying to play around with, you can see the fault lines, grain boundaries, different orientations, gaps and other nifty crystallographic features. And for a one evening build I’m very happy with it.

Also, words can’t express how noisy the 11mm pachinko balls are compared to the ~1mm ones Steve used in his model. However provided you’re the one using it, it’s relaxing and soothing like a rain machine. (However if someone else is doing the playing, for some reason it doesn’t seem quite so serene…)

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Demonstration ROS Coordinate Frames

I spent a bit of time recently help a friend set up a robotics lab. One of the things I wanted to nail down was a consistent set of coordinate frames for all the equipment.

The Robot Operating System is awesome, and provided you set up your TF models correctly, it’ll do all the work for you. However it’s sometimes counterintuitive how it should be set up. ROS has a standard way of arranging coordinates (REP0103), but it’s different for ordinary coordinate frames and camera frames. (For very good historical reasons; the camera frame has Z pointing forwards, which means X is lined up with image columns, and Y is image rows).

I decided to make some tangible models for people to use when they’re discussing transformations. When troubleshooting robots you constantly find yourself in front of a whiteboard making “finger axes”, I wanted something we could use instead, and that had the same colouring and labels as the software.

The idea is first, to have something tangible to play with while brainstorming, and second, as a reminder of the convention, to allow errors to be detected. If there’s an error, I really want someone to ask “Wait, why is the green arrow pointing in a different direction on screen?”.

thumb_IMG_2559_1024.jpg

Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Making the ‘Ultimate’ Pochade Boxes

The previous  writeup was getting a bit long, so I thought I’d put the steps used for making the boxes in their own post.

thumb_IMG_2480_1024.jpg

I started with the frame, using pine and biscuit joints for securing it:

thumb_IMG_2453_1024.jpg

Continue reading

Posted in boxes, paint, boxes, Uncategorized, woodwork | Leave a comment

The ‘Ultimate’ Pochade Box

I’ve been getting interested in plein air oil painting recently, not so coincidentally after Netflix brought out some inspiration.

As with any set of tools, painting equipment only has value if you actually use it, and lots of hobbies get dropped, not because people don’t enjoy them, but because it’s slightly too hard to use regularly. Adam Savage has a great saying, that “drawers are where tools go to die”, i.e. if it’s out of sight, we forget it’s there, and we’re not motivated to look for it.

Hence, I wanted to make sure I had a way to make it easy to get painting. To make getting going on any given day require the absolute bare minimum of ‘spritual energy’, gumption, spoons or other resources that might be running low.

Enter the pochade box! Pochades (from the French for pocket) are an all-in-one way of carrying around supplies and a way of working on paintings in the field.

My wishlist of features was something like this:

  • Must allow stopping and starting just by opening & closing the box
    • No pack up time, fussing to turn canvases around, add clips, put them in separate boxes for transport.
  • Must allow carrying of essentials & tools:
    • Paints, brushes, small amount of solvent & mediums, pencils, etc
    • The two exceptions to this are a roll of paper towels, and the (leakproof) brush washer tin, which I’m happy to carry in my backpack.
  • Tools should be exposed for easy use during painting.
    • This was my major peeve with the French easel design, by hiding stuff behind the canvas, I’m likely to forget it’s there, or be too lazy to use it when I should.
  • Wet canvas carrier
    • Utterly essential. Nothing’s going to add stress to the end of the day like manouvering a wet canvas around safely.
  • Multiple sizes of canvas able to be carried
    • Many pochade boxes are single size only, and lots of artists end up owning three or four different sized boxes, no joke. Of course having a separate small box is much lighter for quick trips, but still flexibility is handy.
  • Should sit flat on a desk, and not take up too much room if I’m sharing a desk with others
    • This one is more a response to some French easel style pochade boxes I saw. They claim to fold up the tripod legs and allow you to use it on a desk in a class environment. It might be just me, but if I’m indoors with a group, I’d feel extremely self conscious having a huge folded tripod on the desk.
  • Weight goal: Hmm… ‘Luggable‘.
    • Lightweight would be good, but I’m aiming for something I can carry a few hundred meters from a car, rather than something you can climb a mountain with.
  • Glass palette as mixing surface
    • Easy cleanup, also allows putting reference material underneath
    • Should be removable, as it allows storing unused paint in the freezer

I took my time playing around with ideas for this one. After more than a week of sketching and researching other people’s designs, I had some idea of what I wanted to do.

This is the final result. (Why are there two? At some point through construction, I realised I’d put enough safety margin in my wood purchase to make a whole other box, and I couldn’t resist having a matched set).

 

thumb_IMG_2480_1024.jpg

Here’s what I came up with for wet canvas storage, it’s adjustable to any size canvas, and you can have a pair of different sized wet canvases in place without them touching:

thumb_IMG_2461_1024.jpg

I was inspired by this pochade from Ruth Vines, but modified it so the rods don’t extend out of the box.

The boards are held in place by plastic extrusion used for sliding cupboard doors. The wooden pieces have ‘U’ cutouts and can be completely removed by loosening the nuts and just sliding the frame out. The lower frame has a cutout allowing taller canvasses to pass through:

thumb_IMG_2482_1024.jpg

Both of the box sides have a pullout work surface, something to rest brushes, solvent containers and other miscellaneous bits on:

thumb_IMG_2470_1024.jpg

I might add in some cutouts to act as brush or tool holders

The glass palette surface was just a $5 A4 photo frame screwed to the surface. This has the added bonus that I can put a printed sheet underneath to help me get consistent palette ordering, and a value scale to compare against while painting:

thumb_IMG_2487_1024.jpg

For some reason the hackerspace printer was making the greyscales at the bottom green?  Meh, I’ll fix it later

And of course the palette can be removed & stored in the freezer (to keep the paints wet as long as possible)

thumb_IMG_2488_1024.jpg

The final thing to do was add something to differentiate the two boxes, so I can grab the right one in a hurry. Using the obligatory naming convention I made a couple of lasercut labels:

IMG_2518.JPG

And on the box:

thumb_IMG_2518_1024.jpg

Albrecht and Balthasar ready for action

Sometime I’ll probably put a polyurethane coating on for protection, but they’re pretty sturdy.

I’ve had a chance to carry them around a bit now, and while they’re not light, they’re acceptably ‘luggable’, and I can carry one a kilometer or two without major injuries. They’ve also proved more than sturdy enough to use as a seat while waiting for a train!

Posted in Uncategorized | 2 Comments

What we can’t measure, we can’t improve

Quick and dirty post showing something I made this morning to aid in troubleshooting the filtration system at Robots and Dinosaurs.

Members from RnD have been building and rebuilding our own lasercutters for years. Mostly building our own because we got started before readymade commercial lasercutters of a decent size were affordable to the hobbyist, and if you wanted a machine you needed to spend six months whittling your own from lumps of aluminium. (Nowadays most cheap Ebay lasers are probably the place to start)  But filtering the fumes has always been a bit of a dark art.

We’ve both made filters from scratch, and bought various commercial filters. Every filter is  some combination of a coarse pre-filter, bag filter/wool filter, then putting the output through an activated carbon bed.

Getting a filter that works isn’t the hard bit. It’s getting one that won’t clog up after a week’s use that’s tricky.

Recently we changed lasercutters, and getting the filter going again nicely has been tricky. There’s been discussion about putting fans before or after the inlet, the arrangement of the bags, and which bits are sealing well.

Anyhoo. It occurred to me that a lot of the problem has been that it’s tricky for us to figure out when something’s changed, if the filter’s full, or if a given modification makes the situation better or worse.

After a quick trip to the hardware store, and also getting some pneumatic fittings from my toolkit, here’s what we’ve got:

thumb_IMG_2439_1024.jpg

The U-shaped tube contains water and food dye, and was filled with equal amounts of sucking, blowing and cursing.

I drilled in the case of the lasercutter, on a point which connects to the exhaust plenum, and made sure it seals tightly. Note the use of the air fittings allows us to disconnect the gauge from one point and measure from another, so we can narrow down pieces of equipment during troubleshooting. thumb_IMG_2444_1024.jpg

During use the gauge doesn’t change by much. This is showing the delta pressure between the lasercutter body and after the first pump:

thumb_IMG_2441_1024.jpg

 

I’ll add an adjustable scale to it shortly, but it’s not a bad indicator for now. We’ll probably play around with measuring the pressure between various locations while we’re troubleshooting.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment